Duck ragú with fresh pappardelle

To make the duck ragú, place the skin in a hot frying pan so that the fat starts to melt.

Season the duck meat with salt and pepper. Remove the melting duck skin from the pan and add the chopped duck.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a saucepan over a medium heat and fry the onion and celery for 2 minutes.

Once browned, move the duck meat into the saucepan with the chopped onion and celery. Add the thyme and chestnuts, then pour in the red wine and port and cook over a high heat to reduce the volume of liquid for 1 minute. Put a tight-fitting lid onto the saucepan, reduce the heat to its lowest setting and leave to cook for 1 hour. Check after 30 minutes that there is enough liquid in the pan to cook the duck. If not, add some hot water.

When the duck ragú has been cooking for 1 hour, the liquid should have reduced and the meat will be very tender. Take a whisk and use it to bash the ragú to a pulp – this will make all the meat break up and ensure that it is evenly distributed in the sauce. Transfer to a large non-stick frying pan and keep on a low heat on the stove.

To make the chestnut garnish, heat a small frying pan over a medium heat and add the pancetta matchsticks. Cook until lightly golden-brown, then turn down the heat to low and add the chopped chestnuts. Cook gently for 5 minutes.

Bring a large saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the pappardelle until al dente (about 3 minutes). Remove the pasta with a pair of tongs and add it to the ragú. Keep the pasta water.

Stir in the butter, grated Parmesan and a ladle of pasta water and cook for a further minute then toss well and season with more salt and pepper, to taste.

Place into hot bowls and finish off with the chestnut garnish on top, followed by a little grating of fresh Parmesan and black pepper.

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